Thursday, November 29, 2007

I Heart Free Speech

So yesterday I'm walking through the government plaza, heading to the parliament building to visit my new congressman friend and I notice the plaza is full and has a stage. But really there are so many demonstrations here, that I didn’t even ask what was going on.

But the congressman’s not in his office. Someone tells me they’re all in the plaza because Evo is speaking. In my four Bolivian months, I’ve yet to see Evo in person, so I decide to take a peek. It was intense. He wasn’t saying anything I hadn’t heard him say before, but to see him in front of his base was gripping. I stuck out like a sore thumb as I came upon all the Ponchos Rojos. The Ponchos Rojos (or Red Ponchos) are a group of “peasants” or countryside indigenous men who have somehow formed a sort of militia. They’re probably a collective of indigenous authorities, but I know that when they march for something they ain’t playin’, and it can get ugly.

What’s more, they recently had a rally prior to a march in which they killed two dogs – I guess it was some sort of war cry, but they usually just hang some dummies from a tree and beat it with sticks before they march somewhere – not sure why the sudden change.

So today, I once again obliviously walk through the same plaza and again there is a rally. This time it's full of people with fancy dogs on leashes demanding animal rights and calling the Ponchos Rojos murderers.

I love animals, but I have to admit I found this amusing since the country is currently falling apart! The Eastern half of Bolivia is calling for Evo’s head; there were four deaths and over a hundred escaped prisoners in Sucre last week, plus we’re in the middle of a two day general strike in 6 of the 9 provinces in which those who choose not to participate are beaten up by the mobs!

But hey if they’re gonna re-write the constitution anyway, might as well get it all in there…dogs and all.

2 comments:

John said...

And I thought the current Rudy Guiliani stuff was intriguing. The media -- ABC, CBS, BBC, MSNBC, even FoxNews -- needs to get down to Bolivia stat. Definitely more interesting than a YouTube debate. (Jess, the YouTube debates are not a joke, someone will fill you in when you get home. Don't hurt your head trying to ponder it, it really isn't worth the time or energy. You have militias beating someone hung in effigy and we have snowmen and computer animated people asking presidential candidates questions. That sounds about equal, right? So please don't worry about us, if we can endure W's constant verbal gaffs, we can and will endure YouTube presidential debates.)

Be safe Jess.

Anonymous said...

Jess, the killing of the dogs by the Ponchos Rojos was their way of showing ideological solidarity with Peru's Shining Path, which also killed dogs as a warning to the uncooperative. Not nice people.