Meeting Jilircotapuchu

It was inevitable and I always knew it was coming. But I thought when the moment arose I’d be full of compassion and humility. I thought I’d back away with my head bowed out of respect for all an ancient people had endured.

But such was not the case.

The Urus, among the earliest indigenous peoples in the Andes, have every reason in the world not to trust an American. As do most Bolivians, given the recent comments and actions of the US Ambassador. *

But perhaps I’m getting a little haughty due to all I’ve “endured” in my assimilation. I mean losing your lunch in the middle of a market, eating llama meat out of a plastic bag, chewing coca leaves offered by indigenous authorities, traveling to the ends of the earth and not showering for days…I thought I was doing pretty good…

So when I met the “chief” of the Urus Nation of Lake Poopo, and the first thing out of his mouth was “we don’t want Americans here,” I didn’t take it well. First, I laughed and tried to assure I came in peace, with no other motive than to learn. He didn’t seem convinced; so I kept my mouth shut the rest of the meeting. I reminded my colleagues, that an American would never say that to a Bolivian and with spite added that most Americans don’t even know where Bolivia is!!

But as I observed the meeting, I realized what a fascinating and incredible man this leader was and as I learned more about the Urus and all he had done for his people, I really, really wanted him to trust me! When I shook his hand to make my leave, he gave me a wink and said, “I joke a lot.” That’s when I was sold. I have to go back and stay with the Urus. No one studies the Urus, there’s one small book, that’s it. Furthermore, being fishermen makes them current victims of global warming, as their lake is drying up. They’re also involved in a land dispute, losing their native language and nearing extinction...the list goes on.

Luckily, the Jilircotapuchu and I were heading the same direction and shared a ride. So I turned on all the charm and sincerity I could muster and finally asked if I could come back and write about his people.

His response: “Let’s write.”



*Photos of the ambassador socializing with criminals have recently surged without explanation. Furthermore, when President Morales called for the UN to be moved out of NYC and to a more neutral country that wouldn’t detain him every time he tried to attend meetings, the ambassador responded that next Morales would call for Disneyland to be moved out of Florida…